CONTENTS

    The essential steps to produce a multilayer PCB

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    Tony Zh Yi
    ·July 21, 2025
    ·19 min read
    The essential steps to produce a multilayer PCB
    Image Source: unsplash

    Learning how to make a multilayer PCB​ involves following a series of precise steps. First, you need to design the board, select the right materials, and process the inner layers. Next, you move on to lamination, drilling, plating, and outer layer processing. After that, you apply the solder mask, perform surface finishing, inspect the board, and complete the final profiling. If you skip or rush any of these steps while learning how to make a multilayer PCB​, you may encounter issues like layer misalignment, drilling burrs, or resin-plugged via defects. These common problems can negatively impact your board’s performance. Understanding how to make a multilayer PCB​ helps you avoid these mistakes and ensures that every board meets high quality standards.

    Key Takeaways

    • Carefully do each step from design to packaging to make a strong and dependable multilayer PCB.

    • Pick the best materials and watch over steps like lamination and drilling to stop mistakes.

    • Check and test your board well to find problems early and make sure it is high quality.

    Step by Step Guide to Multilayer PCB Fabrication

    When you make a multilayer PCB, you follow steps in order. These steps help you build circuit boards that work well. Every part of making multilayer PCBs is important. If you skip a step or mess up, your board might not work right. You should know the whole pcb fabrication process before you start.

    Design and Data Preparation

    You start making a multilayer pcb by getting your design files ready. Most companies use Gerber or IPC-2581 formats. You need to check your files for mistakes. Make sure they fit what your fabrication shop needs. Good design helps you avoid problems later.

    • Use the right CAD software for multilayer designs.

    • Set up negative plane layers with the right space.

    • Change pad shapes for both inner and outer layers.

    • Update drawings for multilayer printed circuit boards.

    • Talk to your manufacturer early about things like layer count and via types.

    Tip: If you talk to your fabrication shop early, you can save time and money when making multilayer pcbs.

    Material Selection

    Picking the right materials is very important in making multilayer pcbs. Epoxy resin is used a lot because it sticks well and handles heat. Polyimide is good for boards that need to bend or handle high heat. CFR-epoxy is best for aerospace circuit board fabrication. PTFE is used for boards that need to work with high frequencies. Thermoplastic materials are becoming more popular because they can bend. The material you pick changes how strong and reliable your multilayer circuit board is.

    You have to pick materials that match your design and the needs of your pcb manufacturing process. This step makes sure your multilayer pcb fabrication meets industry rules and gives you good results.

    Inner Layer Processing

    Core Material Selection

    You begin by picking the right core materials. The core is the base of your circuit board. You must check different properties before you choose. These properties change how your multilayer pcb works.

    1. Electrical Properties: You want a steady dielectric constant (Dk). This keeps signals strong, even when they move fast. High resistivity stops signals from leaking out.

    2. Thermal Properties: Pick a core with a high glass transition temperature (Tg). Good thermal conductivity helps the board handle heat. These things stop the board from bending or warping.

    3. Mechanical Properties: The core should be tough and not break or bend. Strong cores keep your multilayer circuit board safe from harm.

    4. Environmental and Chemical Resistance: Choose a core that does not soak up water or get hurt by chemicals. This helps your board last longer in hard places.

    Note: For high-speed or RF circuit boards, you need a core with a tight Dk and low water absorption. For power boards, focus on thermal conductivity and insulation.

    You also need to follow environmental rules. Many companies use RoHS-compliant and halogen-free materials. This makes pcb manufacturing safer and better for the earth.

    Cleaning and Preparation

    Before you image the inner layers, you must clean the core. Dust, oil, or dirt can cause problems in multilayer pcb manufacturing. Use isopropyl alcohol to clean off oils. Use demineralized water for light dirt. For tough dirt, use special pcb cleaners.

    • Use soft brushes or air to blow away dust.

    • Wear gloves so you do not touch the board with oily hands.

    • Keep cleaned cores in containers with no dust.

    These steps stop rust and water problems. Clean rooms are best for this job. If you skip cleaning, you might get defects that ruin your board.

    Imaging and Etching

    Now you put your circuit pattern on the inner layers. Cover the core with a dry film that reacts to light. Use UV light or a laser to show the pattern. After this, you develop the film. The parts not shown to light wash away. The copper traces stay safe under the film.

    Next, you remove the extra copper by etching. Chemicals like ferric chloride, ammonium persulfate, and cupric chloride are used. Each chemical has its own safety and earth rules. For example, cupric chloride can be used again, which cuts down on waste.

    Here is a table with common imaging and etching facts:

    Aspect

    Details

    Imaging Techniques

    Photoresists, UV exposure, laser direct imaging

    Etching Chemicals

    Ferric chloride, ammonium persulfate, cupric chloride

    Quality Control Methods

    Automated Optical Inspection (AOI), manual inspection

    Defects Detected by AOI

    Shorts, opens, spacing errors, pattern distortions

    Registration Accuracy

    Maintained within < 5 mil tolerance

    Tip: Keeping the right temperature and moving the chemicals helps you get even etching and fewer mistakes.

    Etch Stripping

    After etching, you must take off the leftover photoresist. This is called etch stripping. Use chemicals like sodium hydroxide to do this. Always wear gloves and goggles to stay safe. Good airflow is needed because some chemicals make fumes.

    Many factories now use closed systems to recycle chemicals and cut down on waste. This makes multilayer pcb manufacturing safer for people and the earth.

    Inner Layer AOI

    When you finish etching and stripping, you must check for mistakes. Automated Optical Inspection (AOI) scans the board and checks it against your design. AOI finds problems like shorts, opens, and pattern mistakes. This step is very important because you cannot fix inner layer mistakes after lamination.

    AOI can find up to 90% more mistakes than people can. But AOI cannot see inside the layers. Some companies use X-ray checks for hidden problems. If AOI finds a mistake, you must decide if you can fix the board or throw it away.

    Remember: Careful checking now helps you avoid big mistakes later in pcb manufacture.

    Oxide Treatment and Layup

    Oxide Treatment

    You must treat the copper on the inner layers first. This step is called oxide treatment. Chemicals like brown or black oxide are used. These chemicals make the copper surface rough. The rough surface helps the prepreg resin stick better during lamination.

    Oxide treatment is needed for a strong multilayer circuit board. If you skip this, the layers may not stick well. Bad bonding can make the layers come apart. This can cause the circuit board to fail. Oxide treatment helps copper and resin bond tightly. This makes the peel strength higher. Experts say it should be over 5 pounds per inch for 1oz copper foil. You also control how much oxide is on the copper and how long the crystals are. These things stop delamination and make your multilayer pcb more reliable.

    Factor

    Effect on Adhesion

    Peel Strength

    Stronger bonding

    Oxide Weight

    Better layer adhesion

    Crystal Length

    Improved resin bonding

    Tip: Always check the chemical strength and timing. This helps you get the best results for your circuit board.

    Layer Stackup

    After oxide treatment, you do the layer stackup step. You put the treated inner layers, prepreg sheets, and outer copper foils in order. How you stack these layers changes how your multilayer circuit board works.

    A normal stackup for a 6-layer pcb is:

    • Top Signal Layer

    • Ground Plane

    • Internal Signal Layer

    • Power Plane

    • Ground Plane

    • Bottom Signal Layer

    This setup keeps signals and power balanced. Ground planes next to signal layers help signals return easily. This lowers noise and stops electromagnetic interference. If you have more layers, you add more signal and plane layers. You keep the stackup even on both sides. This stops the board from warping and keeps it flat.

    You also set the space between layers with core and prepreg materials. The space is important for impedance control and making boards smaller. A good stackup design helps your board work at high speeds. It also lowers crosstalk and keeps electrical performance steady.

    Lamination

    Heat and Pressure Bonding

    Lamination is a key step in making a multilayer circuit board. You put all the layers together in a stack. Then you use heat and pressure to join them into one board. The stack goes inside a vacuum press. This machine takes out air and stops bubbles from forming.

    You set the temperature between 180°C and 200°C. The pressure should be between 300 and 500 psi. These settings help the resin move and fill every space. The right heat and pressure make the resin harden well. This keeps the board strong and stops it from bending or coming apart. The stack stays in the press for 60 to 120 minutes. The time depends on how many layers your board has.

    Parameter

    Standard Range

    Why It Matters

    Temperature

    180-200°C

    Cures resin, prevents warping and delamination

    Pressure

    300-500 psi

    Bonds layers, removes voids

    Time

    60-120 minutes

    Ensures full curing for all layers

    Tip: Always watch the lamination process closely. If you use the wrong settings, you can get problems. These include layers coming apart, small white spots, or bubbles. These issues can happen if the resin is not even, the materials are bad, or there is too much water.

    After lamination, check the board to see if it is bonded well. You should not see any gaps or bubbles. Good lamination makes your multilayer pcb strong and ready to use.

    Drilling

    Via and Hole Creation

    You must make holes and vias to link the layers. This step uses special drilling machines. There are two main ways to drill. One is mechanical drilling. The other is laser drilling. Each way has good and bad points.

    Drilling Technology

    Description

    Typical Hole Diameter

    Tolerance (Diameter)

    Depth Control Tolerance

    Advantages

    Disadvantages

    Mechanical Drilling

    Uses rotating carbide steel drill bits to create holes through PCB layers.

    ~0.010 inch

    ±0.003 inch

    Older machines: ±0.002 inch

    High quality, consistent holes; sharp edges; suitable for larger vias and through-holes.

    Drill bits can break for very small holes (<0.008 inch); requires deburring; slower for many holes.

    Modern machines: ±0.0005 inch

    Controlled depth drilling enables precise blind vias.

    Manual setup on older machines is time-consuming; tool changes needed for multiple sizes.

    Laser Drilling

    Uses high-intensity laser beams (UV or CO2) to ablate holes, especially for small blind/buried vias.

    Smaller than mechanical

    Not explicitly quantified

    Depth control less accurate

    Can create smaller holes; faster processing; non-contact; automated; good for blind/buried vias.

    Depth accuracy challenges; tapering of holes; carbonization of edges; less suitable for large holes.

    Mechanical drilling is best for big holes and most through-holes. It makes sharp and neat holes. New machines use cameras and sensors to guide the drill. This helps keep the holes the right size and depth. The depth can be controlled very well, even better than ±0.0005 inches. Laser drilling is used for tiny blind or buried vias. It is fast and can make lots of holes at once. But it is harder to control how deep the holes go.

    • Mechanical drilling with depth control is used for blind vias.

    • Special drill bits help make the right hole shape and size.

    • Newer machines make drilling more accurate and faster.

    • Not every factory has these machines, but they help a lot.

    Most vias and holes should meet the quality rules. In a group of 1,000 vias, about 98.5% pass all checks. Only a few have small voids or are a little off-center. Big problems almost never happen.

    Metric

    Value

    Sample Size

    1000 vias

    Vias Passing All Criteria

    98.5%

    Minor Voids (<10% volume)

    1.2%

    Misalignment (acceptable)

    0.3%

    Critical Defects

    0%

    Bar chart showing yield rates and defect types for via creation in multilayer PCB manufacturing

    Tip: Always check your drilling machines and drill bits before you start. Clean tools and a good setup help you get the best results for your multilayer PCB.

    Plating and Via Formation

    Copper Plating

    Copper plating joins all the layers in your multilayer PCB. You must do a few steps to cover every hole and surface with copper. Here is what you do:

    1. Pretreatment: First, clean the copper foil and holes. This takes away oil, dirt, and resin from drilling. Clean copper helps new copper stick well.

    2. Plasma Etching: Next, use plasma to clean and smooth the holes. This also removes tiny burrs that could cause trouble later.

    3. Charge Adjustment: Then, change the charge on the resin surface. This helps the activator stick to the board for the next step.

    4. Electroless Copper Plating: Now, put a thin copper layer on the hole walls and surfaces. This layer is thin and easy to break, but it makes the holes able to carry electricity.

    5. Electrolytic Copper Plating: After that, use electricity to add more copper. This makes a strong copper layer on the holes and both sides of the board.

    6. Pattern Plating: Last, cover places you do not want to plate with a special resist. Then, plate copper only where your circuit needs it.

    Tip: Add dummy pads, called thieving, in empty spots. These pads help keep the plating current even. Even current gives the board the same copper thickness everywhere.

    Critical Control

    Why It Matters

    Oil Removal

    Stops dirt and helps copper stick

    Charge Adjustment

    Makes copper layer even and connects well

    Thieving (Dummy Pads)

    Keeps copper thickness the same

    Plating Current Monitoring

    Stops copper from being too thick or too thin

    You need to watch every step carefully. If you skip or rush a step, copper may be uneven or weak. Careful copper plating keeps your multilayer PCB strong and working well.

    Outer Layer Processing

    Outer Layer Imaging

    You begin by putting your circuit pattern on the top and bottom of the board. First, you spread a photoresist layer over the outer copper. Then, you shine UV light through a mask that shows your circuit design. The parts hit by the light get hard. The parts not hit by light stay soft.

    Here are the main steps for outer layer imaging:

    1. Photoresist Application: Cover the board with a thin photoresist layer.

    2. UV Exposure: Shine UV light through a patterned film to show your circuit.

    3. Developing: Wash away the soft photoresist, leaving your pattern.

    This process makes very thin lines and spaces. Good imaging is needed for your circuit to work right. If you mess up, you could get shorts or open spots.

    Tip: Always check your imaging tools and films before you start. Clean tools help stop dust and mistakes.

    Outer Layer Etching

    After imaging, you start etching. You use chemicals to take away copper not covered by the hard photoresist. This step shows the final traces and pads on your board.

    • Put the board in an etching machine.

    • The chemicals remove the extra copper.

    • Only copper under the photoresist stays.

    Careful etching keeps your traces the right size and space. If you do this step well, your board will match the design and work right.

    Step

    Purpose

    Imaging

    Puts circuit pattern on outer layer

    Etching

    Takes away extra copper

    Note: Automated Optical Inspection (AOI) usually comes after etching. AOI finds problems like misaligned parts or shorts early, so you can fix them before moving on.

    Solder Mask and Silkscreen

    Solder Mask and Silkscreen
    Image Source: unsplash

    Solder Mask Application

    A solder mask protects your multilayer PCB. This layer is usually green, but it can be other colors. It covers the board and leaves pads and holes open. The solder mask stops solder from making unwanted bridges. It also keeps dust and water away from your board. There are different solder mask materials. Each type has its own good points.

    Solder Mask Material

    Advantages

    Liquid Photoimageable Solder Mask (LPSM)

    Makes sharp lines, sticks well, works for complex boards, helps machines, and improves heat and electricity flow.

    Dry Film Solder Mask (DFSM)

    Gives even thickness, covers well, is fast for big jobs, and works for flat boards.

    Epoxy-based

    Sticks well, resists chemicals, and handles heat.

    Acrylic-based

    Bends easily and resists chemicals.

    Urethane-based

    Bends a lot, sticks well, and handles heat.

    Liquid Photoimageable Solder Mask (LPSM) is used most often. It makes clear lines and works with machines. Dry Film Solder Mask (DFSM) is best for thick, even layers. It is good for making many boards at once. These materials help your board last longer and keep solder joints clean.

    Tip: Always make sure your solder mask fits your board’s needs. The right one makes your board stronger and more reliable.

    Silkscreen Printing

    Silkscreen printing puts labels, logos, and numbers on your PCB. These marks help you build and fix the board. You can use different ways to print. Each way gives a different level of detail and strength.

    Method

    Precision

    Resolution

    Durability (Abrasion Resistance)

    Speed

    Suitability for Multilayer PCBs

    Manual Screen Printing

    Medium

    Not very sharp

    Medium

    Slow

    Good for small jobs, less detail

    Liquid Photo Imaging (LPI)

    Very sharp

    Very sharp

    Good

    Medium to fast

    Best for sharp marks and strong boards

    Direct Legend Printing (DLP)

    Very sharp

    Very sharp

    Not as strong

    Fast

    Quick and sharp, but some limits

    • Epoxy inks stick well and resist heat, chemicals, and scratches. They are used in car and factory boards.

    • Acrylic inks dry fast and are good for quick jobs, but do not last as long as epoxy.

    • UV curable inks dry quickly and last in tough places. They are great for making lots of boards and for detailed work.

    Liquid Photo Imaging (LPI) and Direct Legend Printing (DLP) make sharp, easy-to-read marks. They are best for multilayer PCBs that need fine details. Manual screen printing is slower and less sharp, so it is used for simple or small jobs.

    Note: Clear, strong silkscreen marks make your PCB easier to use and fix. Always pick the printing way and ink that match your project.

    Surface Finishing for Multi-layer PCB

    Surface Finish Types

    You have to pick the best surface finish for your multilayer PCB. The finish keeps the copper pads safe and helps solder stick well. Each finish has good and bad points. Your choice changes how your board works and how long it lasts.

    Surface finishes work like shields for copper pads. They help solder join to the board and stop copper from rusting. Some finishes make the surface flat and smooth. Others can leave bumps or rough spots. If you choose the wrong finish, you might get weak solder joints, peeling, or cracks. Wet air and strong chemicals can also hurt the finish over time.

    Here is a table that shows common surface finishes and how they compare:

    Surface Finish

    Solderability

    Corrosion Resistance

    Long-Term Reliability

    Assembly Compatibility

    Cost

    HASL

    Good

    Moderate

    Moderate (12 months)

    Suitable for conventional soldering

    Low

    ENIG

    Excellent

    High

    High

    Fine-pitch and HDI compatible

    Higher

    Immersion Silver

    Excellent

    Good

    Good

    Lead-free soldering compatible

    Moderate

    ENEPIG

    Excellent

    Excellent

    Very High

    Soldering and wire bonding supported

    High

    Think about these things when you pick a finish:

    • ENIG and Immersion Silver give flat, shiny surfaces that do not rust. These finishes help solder flow and make your board last longer.

    • HASL is fine for most boards but may not work for tiny parts.

    • ENEPIG gives the best shield and is good for special jobs like wire bonding.

    • Hard hits and tough places can damage any finish, so pick what fits your project.

    Tip: Always choose a surface finish that matches your assembly, where you use the board, and your budget. The right finish keeps your multilayer PCB strong and easy to build.

    Inspection and Testing

    Inspection and Testing
    Image Source: pexels

    Electrical Testing

    You have to check each multilayer PCB for electrical issues before shipping. Electrical testing, or E-test, makes sure all connections are correct. Special machines test for open circuits and shorts. This step uses the IPC-9252 standard, so every board gets tested. Flying probe testers are good for small batches. Bed-of-nails fixtures work for big groups of boards. These tests help you find up to 30% more problems early.

    Here is a table with important industry standards for PCB testing:

    Standard

    What It Checks

    Main Focus

    IPC-TM-650

    Reliability test methods

    Thermal/electrical stress

    IPC-6012/A-600

    Manufacturing acceptance

    Material and process quality

    MIL-STD-202/883

    Military/aerospace reliability

    Extreme environment durability

    JEDEC

    System-level reliability

    Moisture and solder joint issues

    ISO 9001/IATF 16949/ISO 13485

    Quality management

    Consistency and traceability

    Electrical testing helps you find shorts, opens, and other faults before assembly. This step keeps your boards reliable and safe.

    Final Quality Inspection

    You must check each board for defects that could cause trouble later. You use different ways, like Automated Optical Inspection (AOI), X-ray checks, and looking by hand. AOI finds missing parts and solder errors. X-ray checks can see hidden problems inside the board. X-ray inspection can catch up to 90% more defects. Functional testing checks if the board works in real life. This test can find up to 70% of performance problems.

    Common problems you might see include:

    • Layer misregistration

    • Copper thickness changes

    • Drill holes not lined up

    • Lamination problems

    • Solder mask mistakes

    • Surface finish issues

    You fix these problems by using better materials, strict controls, and new machines. Careful inspection and testing help you deliver high-quality multilayer PCBs every time.

    Final Profiling and Packaging

    Routing and Cutting

    You must cut your multilayer PCB to its final shape. This step is called profiling. There are different ways to cut the board. Each way gives a different edge and speed. The table below shows the main cutting methods:

    Technique

    Description

    Edge Quality and Effects

    Precision (Tolerance)

    Speed and Suitability

    Laser Cutting

    A strong laser cuts the board without touching it

    Very smooth edges; almost no rough spots

    ±0.001 inches

    Slower; best for fancy, flexible, or rigid-flex PCBs

    Punching

    A machine pushes down to cut the board

    Rougher edges; can make tiny cracks or dust

    ±0.002 inches

    Very fast; good for making lots of boards

    Router Cutting

    A spinning tool cuts along the board’s outline

    Smooth edges; some dust left behind

    ±0.003-0.005 inches

    Medium speed; works for small or medium batches

    V-Cut

    A V-shaped blade cuts from both sides

    Jagged edges; copper can smear

    ±0.004-0.008 inches

    Fastest; good for simple shapes and big jobs

    Tip: Pick laser cutting for the smoothest edges. Use punching or V-cut if you need speed and do not care about edge looks.

    Cleaning and Packaging

    After cutting, you need to clean your PCB. Blow off dust with air or use a soft brush. Make sure nothing is left on the board.

    To pack your boards, you must keep them safe from static, water, and bumps. Follow these steps:

    • Put each PCB in a special anti-static bag to stop static.

    • Wrap boards with bubble wrap or foam that is safe for electronics.

    • Use bags that block water and add packets to keep things dry.

    • Place wrapped boards in strong boxes with padding.

    • Mark boxes as "Fragile" and add order info.

    • Do not stack boards unless you use dividers.

    • Store boards in dry, clean, and static-safe racks.

    Note: Always check your packing stuff before using it. Change it if you see any rips or damage.

    Cleaning and packing your boards well keeps them safe when shipping or storing. This step helps you send out great boards every time.

    How to Make a Multilayer PCB: Step-by-Step

    Key Takeaways

    If you want to learn how to make a multilayer pcb​, you need to follow each step carefully. Use this checklist to guide you through the process:

    1. Define your project needs. Decide how many layers you need, the size, and what the board will do.

    2. Choose the right materials. Pick the best core, prepreg, and copper foil for your design.

    3. Prepare your design files. Check your files for errors and make sure they match your manufacturer’s rules.

    4. Plan your stackup. Arrange the layers for good signal flow and thermal control.

    5. Place and route components. Use best practices to keep signals clean and avoid noise.

    6. Drill holes and vias. Make sure each hole lines up with your design.

    7. Image and etch copper patterns. Create the traces on both inner and outer layers.

    8. Laminate the layers. Use heat and pressure to bond everything into one strong board.

    9. Apply solder mask and silkscreen. Protect your board and add labels for easy assembly.

    10. Finish the surface. Pick a finish that helps solder stick and keeps copper safe.

    11. Inspect and test. Use AOI, X-ray, and electrical tests to catch any problems.

    12. Cut and clean the board. Shape your board and remove dust before packing.

    13. Package and ship. Use safe packing to protect your multi-layer pcb during delivery.

    Tip: If you follow each step in how to make a multilayer pcb​, you will get a board that works well and lasts longer. Careful planning and testing help you avoid mistakes.

    When you use this checklist for how to make a multilayer pcb​, you make sure every board meets high standards. Keep this guide handy whenever you need to remember how to make a multilayer pcb​ from start to finish.

    You get better multilayer PCB quality if you do each step in order. Checking your work at every stage is important.

    1. Automated inspections help find problems early.

    2. Careful layer alignment and bonding stop failures.

    3. Final tests make sure your board meets top standards.
      Follow this guide to get good results every time.

    FAQ

    What is the main reason to use a multilayer PCB?

    Multilayer PCBs let you put more circuits in less space. They help your device work better and make it smaller.

    How do you prevent layer misalignment in multilayer PCBs?

    You need to use exact machines and check often during lamination. Good tools and regular checks keep all layers lined up right.

    Which surface finish should you choose for high-reliability boards?

    ENIG is best for boards that must last a long time. It gives a flat top, strong solder spots, and keeps away rust.

    See Also

    Step-By-Step Guide To Manufacturing Multilayer PCBs

    Understanding The Production Of Multilayer Rigid-Flex Boards

    Complete Guide To Manufacturing Multilayer Ceramic PCBs

    Challenges And Processes In Multilayer Circuit Board Prototyping

    Essential Knowledge For Designing Multilayer PCB Layouts